That warning light on your dashboard is not a reason to visit a dealer. Find your vehicle below, follow the steps for your model year, and the light is gone in under ten minutes.
10
Vehicles covered
Free
Cost to reset
<10 min
Average reset time
The basics
Why the Light Is On and What You Actually Need to Do
Most people pump the tyres up and then wonder why the warning light is still glowing. Here’s the thing: inflating the tyres fixes the pressure. It does not tell the TPMS computer that the problem has been resolved. You have to do that separately.
01
Inflate to the Correct PSI
Check the sticker on the driver’s door jamb, not the number on the tyre sidewall. Those are two different figures and the sidewall one is not what you want.
02
Run the Reset
Press and hold the TPMS button (on most vehicles), or navigate to the TPMS menu in the infotainment if your car uses one. The warning light blinks to confirm.
03
Drive for 10–15 Minutes
The system needs a drive cycle above 25 mph to poll each sensor and log the new baseline pressures. The light clears during or shortly after that drive.
04
Still On? Check the Light Behaviour
A flashing light before it goes solid is a sensor fault, not a pressure problem. Scroll down for what that means and how to handle it.
Find your vehicle
TPMS Reset Guides by Vehicle
Select your make below or browse all ten vehicles. Guides marked in orange are live with full step-by-step instructions by model year. New guides are added weekly.
These two states mean completely different things. Treating a flashing light the same as a solid one is the most common mistake people make, and it leads to a lot of wasted effort.
🟠
Solid TPMS Light
One or more tyres have dropped below the minimum pressure threshold. This is the normal scenario and the one these guides are written for.
Inflate all tyres to the door jamb spec
Run the reset for your vehicle and year
Drive 10–15 minutes above 25 mph
Light clears during or after the drive
🔴
Flashing TPMS Light
The light blinks rapidly for 60–90 seconds, then goes solid. This is the system reporting a hardware fault, not a pressure issue. Inflating the tyres accomplishes nothing here.
Most likely a dead or dying sensor battery
Can also be physical damage to a sensor
Or a sensor missing after a tyre change
Needs a TPMS diagnostic scan to identify
Most tyre shops scan TPMS sensors at no charge. A handheld TPMS reader identifies the faulty sensor in about two minutes. If your car is over eight years old and showing a flashing light, a dead sensor battery is almost certainly the cause. The sensor can’t be repaired; the unit gets replaced.
Sensor replacement
TPMS Sensor Costs: What to Expect
Resetting TPMS is free. Replacing a sensor that’s reached end of life is not. Here’s a realistic breakdown of what it costs for the ten most common vehicles, so you’re not guessing when the shop quotes you.
Vehicle
Sensor Type
OEM Sensor (each)
Aftermarket (each)
Fitting per Sensor
Sensor Lifespan
Ford F-150 2015–2023: 315MHz 2024+: 433MHz
Valve-stem direct
$55–$75
$25–$45
$20–$35
7–10 years
Toyota RAV4 All 3rd–5th gen
Valve-stem direct
$60–$90
$35–$55
$20–$40
7–10 years
Honda CR-V
Valve-stem direct
$55–$80
$30–$50
$20–$35
7–10 years
Honda Civic
Valve-stem direct
$50–$75
$28–$45
$20–$35
7–10 years
RAM 1500
Valve-stem direct
$60–$85
$30–$50
$20–$35
7–10 years
Chevy Silverado
Valve-stem direct
$55–$80
$28–$48
$20–$35
7–10 years
Toyota Tacoma
Valve-stem direct
$58–$85
$30–$50
$20–$40
7–10 years
Jeep Wrangler
Valve-stem direct
$60–$90
$32–$55
$20–$40
7–10 years
Toyota Camry
Valve-stem direct
$55–$80
$28–$45
$20–$35
7–10 years
Chevy Equinox
Valve-stem direct
$50–$75
$25–$45
$20–$35
7–10 years
OEM vs. aftermarket sensors: OEM sensors are programmed at the factory to your vehicle’s frequency and protocol. They drop straight in with no extra steps. Quality aftermarket sensors (Schrader, Continental, Dill) do the job at lower cost but typically need to be programmed to the vehicle at the time of fitting, which most tyre shops handle as part of the labour charge. Avoid no-brand sensors with no listed frequency — incompatible sensors simply don’t work, regardless of how the reset is run.
Common questions
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won’t the TPMS light turn off after I inflated the tyres?
Inflating the tyres corrects the pressure, but the TPMS computer doesn’t know that until you complete a reset. You need to press the TPMS button for your vehicle (or use the infotainment menu on newer models) and then drive at 25 mph or above for 10–15 minutes. The system polls each sensor during that drive and clears the warning once all four report back within spec.
Where is the TPMS reset button on most vehicles?
On the majority of vehicles built between 2008 and 2018, the TPMS reset button sits on the lower-left section of the dashboard, below the steering column. On some models it’s in the glovebox. Vehicles from 2019 onwards increasingly handle the reset through the infotainment touchscreen under Vehicle Settings or a similar menu path. Each individual vehicle guide above covers the exact location for that make and model.
What PSI should I inflate my tyres to?
Always use the pressure on the sticker inside the driver’s door jamb. Not the number on the tyre sidewall — that’s the maximum the tyre can safely hold, not the recommended operating pressure. The door jamb figure is specific to your vehicle, load rating, and tyre size. For most passenger cars and SUVs it falls between 32 and 36 PSI; for trucks and heavier vehicles it can be higher.
Do I need a tool to reset TPMS?
For the standard reset on most modern vehicles, no. A tyre pressure gauge to set the correct PSI, and the reset button or infotainment menu, is all you need. Some older vehicles (certain Ford models from 2007–2014 in particular) require a handheld TPMS activation tool to initiate the sensor relearn sequence. Where a tool is needed, the individual vehicle guide says so explicitly.
Can I drive with the TPMS light on?
Check your tyre pressures before deciding. If a tyre is noticeably underinflated, inflate it before driving further; running a significantly low tyre risks heat buildup, edge wear, and in severe cases a blowout. If pressures are all correct and the light is on due to a pending reset or a sensor issue, driving is fine in the short term. Don’t leave it unresolved for more than a day or two, since you want the system monitoring your pressures accurately.
How often should TPMS sensors be replaced?
Sensors don’t have a scheduled replacement interval the way brake pads or filters do. They last until the internal battery dies, which is typically 7–10 years. The battery is sealed inside the unit and can’t be replaced separately; the whole sensor is replaced when it fails. If your vehicle is approaching eight or more years old and you’re seeing a flashing TPMS light, a dying sensor is the most likely cause.
Will the TPMS light come on every time I swap to winter tyres?
Yes, unless your winter wheels also have TPMS sensors fitted. When you swap to a set of wheels that the system has no sensor data for, it flags the loss of signal. The fix is to have TPMS sensors installed in both your summer and winter wheel sets. After each seasonal swap, run the standard reset for your vehicle and the system relearns the new set.
What’s the difference between direct and indirect TPMS?
Direct TPMS uses a physical sensor inside each wheel that transmits actual pressure readings to the car’s computer. It’s accurate and tells you which specific tyre is low. Indirect TPMS doesn’t use dedicated sensors; instead it infers pressure loss from the ABS wheel-speed data, detecting when one tyre is rotating slightly faster (a sign of lower pressure) than the others. Indirect systems are less precise and are typically only found on older or lower-spec vehicles. All ten vehicles covered in these guides use direct TPMS.
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